Anytime you have an acceptable reason to get new golf equipment and have spare change for it, why not ? It’s way better than a thousand other ways to spend it.
If at all possible, take the few irons which gave you the tighter disbursing pattern and your current set and try both of them out on a golf course or an open field. A few of our local tracks there are hidden practice greens between the holes. Something like a 130-160 yards strip of land between the trees lining the fairways on both sides. I saw high school and college golfers practice their short game there all the time.
Hit off the real turf, sometimes it’ll be quite different than the experience than hitting off the mat.
If only the short irons made a big difference, then, perhaps you should check the lie angle and the bounce on the sole, while doing that, also check the leading and/or release edge on the wedge/short iron. Simply because the attack angle will naturally deeper with the shorter sticks, these elements might be the cause for the difference between your current set and the new set. Just trying to help by giving you something I’ve learned.
Again, it’ll be great to have shining new clubs in the bag and I have plenty over the years.
Don’t be ashamed to admit that the reason for the new golf club is only because you want it.
My wife will get her new shoes and outfit and I will get my golf clubs. Yes, I stopped buying suits and expensive shirts and trousers, $300 pair of shoes long ago. Rather spend the money on the game.
Same club length for both too? Loft’s important, but so is length.
Actually yes, all my clubs are 1/4 inch longer than stock! And all my current iterations are D4 swing weighted and frequency matched TTDG100 shafts now. After that was done, I go to the range and play with a little bit of lead tape to get each club the way I want them to flight a stock shot. Last re-shaft was 2 years ago. The re-shaft was done by a PGA pro who actually builds clubs on the side… so he took extra good care of me to match the spec I requested
Is the TM 7-iron the same length as your 6-iron? (Minus the extra 1/4 inch you had added, of course.) Or is it the same length as your 7-iron?
Again the stock M4…loft 28.5 length 37.25 on their 7iron. My stamped 7i has a loft of 38* and length of 37.25 My 6 iron is 32* and has a length of 37.75. My 5 iron is 28* and 38.25" But I compared the TM 7i to my current 7i & 6i…The 6 iron was within 5 yards of the M4 7iron. I hit that M4 7iron about 170, I hit my 6iron 168ish. Not really discernable distance wise… My 38* 7i stock shot goes 155ish The M4 9iron is the same loft as my 7 iron just 1 inch shorter. So add up all that gobledygook…The lofts on the new irons are inflated to make you think you’re a beast…all because of the number that is stamped on the bottom…that’s why I try to match up lofts, lies and shafts… Or you could just play Bryson clubs and all the lengths could be the same…LOL!
So, same length. But 10 degrees difference in loft? (28.5 vs 38)
That’s amazing. And that 7-iron of yours you mentioned has the loft of my 20 year-old Ping i3 8-iron. Which I didn’t think was that strong compared to yesteryear, but today I learned…
About 2-3 yds per degree of loft, with lots of things affecting that rule of thumb, if this WRX thread is right: https://forums.golfwrx.com/topic/697618-yards-per-degree-of-loft/
Which doesn’t align with a post by Maltby Golf, (that shows up on search engines, but won’t load) which stated that 4 degrees of loft change equalled 5 yards of carry, but such is golf.
You mentioned having re-shafted 4x…so roughly every 8 years (on average). That’s about how often I’ve changed my iron sets over the years…every 8-10 years or so (when I feel like there has been enough of a technology change to explore it).
Do you re-shaft your own clubs? I guess I ask because re-shafting + grips runs around $100+ per club at places I’ve seen…so really no difference in re-shafting or buying a new set from a “pricing only” perspective.
How have you gauged the “right time” to re-shaft for yourself? Has it been significant ball flight changes or something else that you’ve used as an indicator it is time for a change?
Holy crap. Although, a lot of that is the price of the new shaft.
I’ve not reshafted, yet—just epoxied extensions—but it doesn’t look too onerous to do. You need a torch to get the old epoxy loose, and a brush to get the gunk out of the hosel. Mixing epoxy, prepping the shaft, and getting the right amount on isn’t too bad either.
You’re absolutely right on the economics. At 100 bucks+ a shaft, as you note, it’s getting into the, “Screw it, just buy new,” territory. Debating this a lot myself, lately.
Edit: Oh, and how I think it’s time for me to reshaft? These shafts are R-flex, I am getting 115 MPH ball speed on my 7-iron, I’m sending a ton of stuff left and high: even with my poor, but improving swing, I think a stiffer shaft can only help.
OK… I have not reshafted my wedge set (60, 54, 50, 46). They are stock Cleveland CG12 Black Pearls with TT DG S300 Shafts. My 3,4,5,6,7,8,…I have reshafted actually 3x. So, the original red lines I ordered the set came as I ordered them with DGS500, I reshafted again in 1999, with DGS300, again in 2011 with DGR200, I did my final iteration in 2020 with DGX100. At 63, I’m probably done with re-shafting. I get the shafts for $22 a piece, I get charged $15 a club to re-shaft professionally and the Pro keeps my old shafts. I re-grip myself which I do for most of my clubs every other season. So my grips are like $8 and grip tape. So E/O season Grips are like $50. My irons (6 of them) reshafted, frequency matched and weighed to D4…cost 260 buckaroo banzais. When we’re done they are almost like a brand new set, Then off to the range or now to the trackman to play with some lead tape. Some get left alone, others might get a gram or 2 to get a preferred flight. I love the x100’s they definitely have more of a boring flight pattern. For me, because my iron swing can naturally be steep, it lowers the trajectory ever so slightly, but enough I can notice. The newer clubs that are out there are still hollow back, some even filled with foam… The cavity back irons serve the same purpose and my Tour Edition RedLines have a stabilizer bar…which was brought back for the SIMS…hmmm?
My red lines look like this:
Hmmm… so clubheads, other than tweaks to loft and lie angle… sorry…I just don’t see it. I’d rather buy a set of Hogan Apex Edge from the mid 89 and get an excellent bang for my buck… Drivers…again I’m sorry, There has been buku advances in Drivers but over the last 10 years not so much.
Try the DGx100 shafts I really, really like them a ton. They do make a difference it will 100% lower your trajectory. Contrary to what you may read they are a few grams lighter than the 300s
Thanks. I’m not advocating one way or another for new clubs vs new shafts. I’m interested in the economics of it all though. I think people need to see what they like, feel what they like, and play what they like…regardless of how old, what loft, or what name is on the club.
I may keep my Mizuno 850’s forever and perhaps consider a re-shaft if ever my ball flight or swing changes dramatically. Right now they are 8 years old and well maintained. I could buy them or similar clubs for around $60 stock (per iron) - mine are TT XP 115 shafts. So around the same price as a re-shaft or less.
My big issue though is I’m a lefty…supply is limited. I may have to go the re-shaft route if I decide to keep these forever for sure. Great thoughts…interesting perspectives.
You’re right it’s not that bad. Worst case is trying to save graphite shafts and then you want a hydraulic puller, but with steel you can just use torch or heat gun and twist.
X might be a bit mas fuerte for me. We’ll see. I’ll go ‘demo’ something at e.g. Golf Galaxy, and try out S300 v 400 v X100.
I’d read that about X100 v S400, but I hadn’t realized it was true for S300 too
Sticking with TT mainly for cost/predictability, and that those steel would flight lower than equivalent graphite. Though the reputed graphite reduction in vibration is awfully interesting to read.
I didn’t know that about graphite. I’d thought—never tried it—that you could use a torch to soften the epoxy, though you did have to worry about delaminating the shaft.
A rotary tool works better at cutting graphite than I’d have thought.
Here’s what I will tell you, Tour guys get their swag for free, they actually get paid for using swag. Some guys switch just for monetary reasons…how’s that workin out for Rosie? Alot of guys like their stuff. I mean, Henrik’s famous 3W finally busted and he still hasn’t found anything that matches up to that. If you like your clubs, and I’m assuming you do…the Mizuno is an awesome stick… why would you trade em in? Just do what I do, go for a test drive at the Galaxy, see I test drive shafts, I could give 2 hoots about the clubhead…When I find something I like, I go online and buy what I need… I’m sure you can find a person at your course, maybe even your pro, that will re-shaft for about $20-$25 a club… Regrip yourself…that’s EZ. Tell the guy he can keep your old shafts… if he’s in the biz, that’s a bonus for him…those are straight out 100% profit for him…as there is always a moron that will snap a shaft. Remember, the biggest advance EVER over the last 40 years in irons is perimeter weighted cavity back irons (Ping Eye2) every manufacturer has been chasing those forever. Same thing with Driver Technology… Adams was all that in the 2010-2013. Then Taylor bought them to get those patents… Everyone has been chasing that for years… They introduced the adjustable shaft on their 9064. Best Driver everyone’s been forever chasing! I’m one of those persons…not that new clubs are bad, they aren’t, it’s cool to get something new and different…BUT it’s not going to make a big impact on your scoring… There is no Driver going to give you 50yards…there is no iron going to make make you hit 80% GIR, Putter…well I hate that club anymore, but is it a putter, or the person reading the green and rolling it properly?
I don’t think anyone would expect new clubs to achieve your list and I haven’t seen any actual claims that a new driver would add 50 yards. Those claims are reserved for the YouTube adverts normally!
However improving at golf is about marginal gains. A few mph from a better ball, more suited to your swing, 5 mph ball speed from a better club tech (it isn’t all about looks with club design, material tech has an impact) and a similar game from better swing mechanics and now you are getting something more significant. You are totally right, if you buy new clubs expecting massive gains you are buying disappointment but to ignore the potential that new clubs can give is foolish, I certainly need all the help I can get!
Trust me, I have no problem spending money!!
I have no problem spending it either, but you can’t spend what you don’t have 
. I guess in reading the original post… I’m seeing pretty new technology in a set of M4s, you are an 18-20. I’m reading of some significant lost yardage. I stand by my general point, I would bet it’s not the club and it’s something mechanical. Buying new clubs is awesome if you can afford it. I used to work for a guy that bought a new Cadillac every November and barely drove 7000 miles a year. I get the whole thing. Performance of the clubs you own will still boil down to how you swing them. My goal for everyone is to get better. A 20 can get down to a 10 rapidly with practice, that’s when improvement becomes incremental, making a few more saves, making a few more putts, hitting a few more FW and GIR Do that and u get to go from a 10 to maybe a 5 or 6. Unless all your clubs are very old with worn grips and your ball is like a STRATA,…. I know I’m opinionated on the subject and I apologize if I am coming off offensively, it’s coming from a place of the question we all face every now and then. Is it me or is it the club
Not at all offensive, I love the debate. Part of the purchase was ego, I like new things etc. The M4’s are OK, replaced some very old third hand Pings which had replaced some really cheap Slazenger clubs (whole set and bag for £100) Both of those sets are still being used by friends of mine.
But I wanted to see some data to say that actually, with the same club head speed/path etc. new models would perform better and that seemed pretty clear from the data. Next big step is how in translates on the course. I am also making progress on my part of the deal, having more lessons and actually practicing with focus. Hopefully the two things combined will see the improvement I am hoping for. Aim this year is HCI 18 or less…
I will feedback when I get them (8 week😢 ) and see if the holy grail materializes or not! You may get to say ‘I told you so’ yet!